Before leaving Canada I became aware that the government
suggested Canadian citizens visiting Israel do register
with the Embassy here in Tel Aviv. So on my first day here I called them to register (I also floss regularly).
The standard voice mail jail was incomprehensible in any language so I sent
them an email, and promptly forgot about it.
Two days later, I received a similarly
incomprehensible email back (Dear Madam…)
with instructions on how to register online. I let a day or so go by and went
online. After what seemed like a long time filling online forms, I pressed Submit
– and got an error message. So I emailed them to say they needed to QA their website
once in a while… and that I didn’t know whether or not I was in fact
registered.
This morning, four days later,
I received another email (Dear Madam…)
with boilerplate instructions; not answering my question; and suggesting I come
by the embassy to register (with the friendly caveat “we do not schedule appointments”). I don't think I am going to go.
My conclusion: I think
I have “gone native.” I have been here a week and am not worried.
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People of all ages walk around in costume |
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This man was not in costume |
Started the day at the gym, with my second
freebie personal training session. I confirmed that Emanuela was a Sargent in
the Army (she was) plus bonded with her, as she destroyed any shred of gym self-esteem
I might still have had. Today is her birthday and she was going out with
friends and invited me to join them (contrary to what the photo of her that I posted earlier might suggest, we are in fact very close in age; it must be the water
here). I was too stupid and made an excuse saying I was busy, and immediately
regretted it. I now plan to hang out at the gym in the hopes she invites me
again.
My sort of country.
Here is why:
Exhibit 1:
Please see the window sign at this bakery on Dizengoff, right outside
the gym.
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Sign reads: Eat Fresh Pastries Every Morning |
Exhibit 2: It is of course still Purim. People, young and old, continue to walk about in costume. Please see this bakery's selection of hamantaschen
in the photo below.
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Huge selection of freshly baked Hamantaschen |
The best part?
I bought one after the gym (!) and
asked the baker to choose one with his favorite filling for me: It was a halva-filled one! In two bites I destroyed all of Emanuela's good
work.
Tel Aviv is full, absolutely full of cafes. Large
ones, small ones, fancy ones, plain ones, modern ones, European/traditional
looking ones and more, and each one is full of people, from early in the
morning until who-knows-when (certainly past my bed time). The main item I see
people have there, whether they are alone or in groups, is a laptop. Tel Aviv
has to be one of the most wired cities in the world, and one of the reasons
credited for the high tech start-up boom is precisely this proliferation of
"wired third places" where people can work and collaborate and
caffeinate. But that is not all, I read in the paper that the municipality
wants to extend free WiFi further, as a means to further
encourage entrepreneurship.
In other words, one could not be blamed for
thinking that no one works in a proper office, but today I learned differently.
I was invited to meet with a start-up company where the team works in a
beautiful tower overlooking the Mediterranean. It was such a pleasure to meet
with them and see these really, really smart young people envision something, a
solution to a problem, and then simply plunge in and, well, just solve the
problem. Plus, the coffee they served wasn't half bad either.
Getting there was a different story. I was
running a bit late so after I set out on foot, I decided to take a bus. I have been here for a
week and the office tower is in an area of town I have walked to several times
so I (having inherited my mother's sense of direction) was sure I could bus my
way there. I hopped on the number 18 bus and told the driver where I was going.
A brief discussion with, oh, just 2 or 3 other passengers ensued, and there was
agreement that the bus would get me pretty close to where I was going, and that
I could just walk over after. I thanked the almost 1/2 minyan that had helped and sat close to the
driver (lest he forget about me; after all, my sense of direction isn't quite
as good as my mother's).
After a few minutes, the bus turned left when my
instincts told me we needed to go right, so I pointed this out to the driver. He looked at me annoyed and
told he hadn't forgotten about me and that I
should just sit down and he'd let me know.
Once seated again I started to think about the
driver: the buses are plentiful, clean, modern and well equipped, but his job is
stressful. In addition to dealing with Israeli-style driving practices, he has
to deal with full loads of passengers, take their money, give them the right
change, deal with pesky tourists who get on buses unsure of where they are
going and, oh yes, watch out for terrorists wanting to get on the bus to blow
themselves and the busload of passengers up.
From the meeting I walked to the Helena
Rubinstein Museum, where the current exhibit is called “I Am a Berliner”
and presents a remarkable diversity of practices ranging from abstraction and
realism to highly expressive, narrative, and post-narrative painting. These
distinct painterly positions, which are represented by the 18 artists featured
in this exhibitions, all involve a self-reflexive investigation of the
painterly process and of the nature of contemporary painting.
(Can you tell I cut
and pasted this last paragraph from their website?)
On my way home I remembered to buy laundry detergent. This was the challenge:
I am becoming extremely sensitive to the issues of literacy. Not knowing how to read is hell.
On my way home I remembered to buy laundry detergent. This was the challenge:
Partial selection of laundry detergents |
I then finished the day at the same soup counter
I went to last night, where to my utmost delight I learned that each one of the
varieties of soup has a different
type of Kibbeh meat ball to go with it!
loving your blog Raquel. enjoying your stories!!
ReplyDeleteThanks Vida. Not quite like Greenland but you'd love it!
ReplyDelete